So, not one to let a good opportunity pass me by, I designed and had a pirate flag made for ‘The Shark Tank radio show”, fulfilling every boy’s life-long dream of having their very own pirate flag.
So, with Kenny Chesney’s latest single, “Pirate Flag” playing right into my hands (and in my head), a custom made pirate flag in my baggage and my best island girl at my side, we headed south to our favorite place to put the rest of the World behind…
…It’s Sharky’s Big Cozumel Adventure 2013!!
American Airlines flight 367, the daily commute to Cozumel, Mexico from Dallas/Ft. Worth International took off after a slight delay to wait for a few late passengers, most likely trying to make the connection from another flight.
Nevertheless, the Captain kicked ‘er in the pants and we arrived at CZM right on scheduled time.
We made it through customs, “Hola, Welcome to Mexico”, picked up our baggage, 2 bags were literally the last 2 bags off the tug cart, so we were at the back of the line to have your bags x-rayed one last needless time, and for the first time in three years, DID NOT get the red light at the “stoplight” to be searched…whoo hoo! We’re in!
Now, I know he doesn’t necessarily have the best reputation, and his cars definitely aren’t the prettiest girls at the prom, but I’ve been renting from John for many years and have never been broke down on the side of the road, or had any issues with the vehicles what so ever.
First order of business, check the joint out of course.
I turned off at the Caleta and proceeded down the old beach road past El Presedente and Chankanaab Park to the open beach line and the early makings of our first Caribbean sunset.
The old road has been repaved all the way around the island and I believe is to be mostly intended to be used by scooters and bicycles, especially once the old road meets back up with and runs along the new highway C-1 at the old Reef Club area, currently called the Sabor.
I drove on the old road most of the time, being that I am usually doing my nearly scientific analysis of the condition of the island and drive even slower than most scooters,
I have been diving with Matt (Mateo) Moran at Blue Angel since our first stay there in 2006.
Both of us, Matt and I, being native to Illinois, him from Chicago and me from right across the state along the Mighty Mississip. in the Quad Cities. We naturally got along from the beginning.
Time flies, so I’ve lost track of the exact date, but a couple of years ago, Matt and his wife Angela, who is the daughter of my buddy William, the owner of Rasta’s Freedom Bar at Punta Sur, started their own venture and named it the Hawaiian name for Family, ‘Ohana.
The ‘Ohana Café and Bar sits just a couple blocks North of the Square on 5th Ave. North and is truly a place to become part of the Cozumel Family.
Chicago style deep dish pizza! Complete with homemade Chicago style sausage. REAL deep dish pizza, made in a deep dish pie pan, stuffed with fillings and scrumptious gooey cheese and just the right amount of sauce, spiced to perfection.
Although we opted to split an awesome garlic fish dinner; they make some of the best garlic fish at ‘Ohana as well, and bean and cheese nachos with the Mrs. on this evening; I did get to have the deep dish pie on 3 occasions throughout our trip, and would highly recommend it.
All the food at ‘Ohana is simply wonderful, the backyard setting is a great place to relax and even enjoy live music several nights a week.
After dinner, we retired to the bar. Matt had the night off, so our hostess Angie had bar tending duties.
Sipping a nice Reposado tequila really settles a meal down. We’ve taken to drinking aged “sipping tequila” rather than the sweet drinks and it really helps the head feel better in the morning. No hangover at all if you cut out the sugared mixers. Something I learned, oddly enough, from Sammy Hagar, yes, that Sammy Hagar.
‘Ohana has quite a selection of all three grades of tequila, Blanco, Reposado, Añejo, and we made quite a tasting throughout the next 2 weeks.
Our friends Chris and Sharon at Andele Beach Bar over on the “wild side” usually have some on hand as well. I’ll tell more of our new friends later in the trip.
You see, the grounds are on what appears from the road to be an abandoned hotel tower and you can’t see the absolutely gorgeous beach and day beach facilities and restaurant form the road at all.
So, it was time to check this place out. We jumped in the jeep, (the Tracker will now be referred to as ‘the jeep’), and headed to the Northern Hotel Zone.
You drive into the property and it feels like you are on a road to nowhere …just make a right at the guard shack and keep going, there is gold at the end of the rainbow.
More on the amazing Buccano’s at Night later, but first let’s make it through breakfast!
With such delights as Coconut French Toast, Chocolate Chip Pancakes, several omelets and egg dishes and Mexican traditional breakfast dishes, it was hard to choose.
Wayne and Anna are dive buddies from Canada and were waiting to head out to the airport when we arrived back at Blue Angel.
We spent some time talking with them in the lobby as it began to rain around noon for about a half of an hour.
The rain subsided and we put our friends in a cab and sent them off to the airport as we head upstairs to collect our SCUBA gear for the first dive of the trip.
Now, there are people who will tell you that there is no “good” shore diving in Cozumel.
First of all define, good. I have a buddy who’s been diving almost longer than I’ve been alive. He says there’s no such thing as a bad dive. “If you’re underwater, it’s a good dive, Mate.” …he British by the way.
Come along on a dive to Villablanca Shallows with me, or dive with one of my favorite Cozumel underwater photographer colleges, ‘jlyle’ from the ScubaBoard at Scuba Club, or just look up his photos on the SB to see what you can find in the shallows.
The area I call Villablanca Shallows stretches south to north, from Villa Blanca Hotel/Papa Hogs to Blue Angel Resort. The fabulous Villablanca Wall runs parallel to it (going both further South and North than the ‘shallows’ limits. More on VB Wall later.
As evening rolled around, it began to lightly rain again, which continued on and off throughout most of the evening and on into the night.
No cruise ships on Sunday…it’s a tradition. This is “family day” on the island and with no cruise ships around, it allows folks to have a traditional day off and spend it with the family.
After the late morning dive, (hey! see “The Dives”!) I was battling my old foe seasickness and slept a good portion of the late afternoon.
Too bad too, Rasta’s had live reggae bands playing all afternoon, and by the time we showed up, about sunset, they had pretty much wrapped everything up.
I slowed the jeep down to a near stop, and sure enough there they were. Cozumel’s very own little bandit, the Mexican Raccoon.
Not the little long nosed cousin, the Coati, but real raccoons, like Davie Crocket and Daniel Boone had hats made out of.
I have seen them up at Punta Norte, getting into the fisherman’s fish scraps and along the gravel road leading up there, but I’ve never seen them south of town before.
Sometimes hit and miss, this visit it was either right on, or we were just starving…probably a little of both.
Sea food burrito, for her, and chicken fajitas for me, and we were off to the Blue Angel for some shut eye.
We spent a lot of time driving around, deep in town, beyond 30th Ave., if you will.
It is amazing how much new construction is happening off of Benito Juarez just as you come in town from the east side on the Trans-Island highway.
Whole new neighborhoods are popping up. With at least one of not two new major north/south thoroughfares with frontage roads that have parking on them. I think that eventually what looks like a frontage road will actually be parking lot passage with pull in parking on each side of it for retail.
We ended up, like most evenings, sitting on our balcony, marveling at the amazing weather and enjoying the evenings free show of another spectacular sunset.
Hunger we setting in, so I left her at the hotel to relax and I ventured up to see Matt at ‘Ohana and order a deep dish pizza and house salad to go. My first of three times I had the wonderful gift from home.
I bellied up to the bar and grabbed a menu, ordered a cold water and a shot of tequila and followed Matt out front to meet some now acquaintances.
Chris and Sharon are fairly new to the island, Chris is originally from South Africa and Sharon is from England. It was all I could do to not start talking like them, especially Chris, that South African accent is so distinct and very cool.
These two operate the newly re-opened Andale Bar over on the Wild Side of the island.
Some of you long timers might remember, years ago it was called Andale Bar, and the owners used the cartoon character Speedy Gonzalez for their logo. I remember seeing their t-shirts.
Then some guy bought it and tried turn it into a biker bar…? Changed the motif to skulls and black and, well, let’s just say, it didn’t quite work out.
So these two are giving it a go over at the beautiful San Martin beach, located just between Playa Bonita and Chen Rio.
One of the few spots on the island where conditions, on an occasion, provides some pretty sweet sets of waves nice enough to strap on a board and do some surfing from.
Chris and Sharon are trying to go with basically a surfing theme and like most Cozumel palapa bars, they are currently accepting t-shirts and paraphernalia for the ceiling. So if you are so inclined, please bring a home town ‘T’ for the décor at Andale.
Andale is a great place to kick back on a hot afternoon. The 2nd story palapa sits across the new highway from the beach and is set up higher than the road, so the cool Caribbean breeze is constantly sweeping through the bar like natural air conditioning.
There are even a couple of hammocks strung up in the bar and with that breeze and a couple of Sherry’s drinks, it might siesta time.
Back at the room, the pizza was consumed until we were about ready to bust, which was really just one and maybe a half pieces for her and I managed to do 2 and the other half of hers…aw-some…kudos to Matt and Angie to adding this dish to an already fantastic menu.
After a restless night, insomnia is my new friend; we decided to take the day off from diving and lay low.
We slept in a little and had a light breakfast in the lobby of the hotel of fruit and yogurt and eventually made our way to the pool. Well she did.
I headed straight for the hammocks strung up under the small coconut palms between the hotel and the pool.
I pushed the ceiling tiles in my barracks room away one day and noticed a large I beam running the length of my room, so I tied up a hammock I had, and still have to this day. It’s made of white line, but it looks exactly like the ones you’ll find for sale all over Mexico.
We also had one on the signal bridge of my ship, and on nice evenings when I didn’t have to work, I’d go up there and sleep under the stars when we were out to sea.
I was doing this the night before we came into Pearl Harbor on one of our many trips to Hawaii from San Diego…I know, rough duty huh?
The sun was coming up, just as we were passing Diamond Head…priceless.
So, when most people struggle to get in and out of one, slip right in and cocoon myself with the net and am off to Never-Never Land in no time.
My friend Sally, barefootincozumel.com was out of town and I was in desperate need of a massage. I talked to Andrea at the front desk at the hotel, and after making a phone call, a lady showed up, massage table in hand and I was off to Never-Never land…again.
Thanks again to Andrea for hunting her down for me.
For dinner we met up with Bob and Janice for a wonderful meal, as usual at Le Chef.
Located on Ave 5 at Calle 5 south, I believe it is, is one of the best places to eat on the island, hands down.
We parked the jeep at our little parking lot on 3rd and walked down the street to meet Bob and Janice, who had already arrived and were at a four topper on the sidewalk dining area, under the canvas awnings.
Our friends had already ordered, Tuna Tar Tar for her and fish for him, I forget how it was prepared exactly, but they both gave rave reviews.
As did we! Lore had, by the waiter’s recommendation, Fish of the day, Wahoo in this case, in a lobster, mushroom sauce. He said it was his favorite, and she’s brought it up several times since we’ve been back how much she loved it.
I was craving pasta, all the diving must have been eating carbs like crazy. Seafood pasta, no matter how fresh and well prepared, always is a little too “seafoody” for me, so I went with the spaghetti with grilled chicken and veggies…lots of veggies! Lots of chicken and pasta for that matter! I ate until I was going to burst and it hardly looked like I touched my plate…now how about some dessert?
We all four waddled back to the jeep, and just as we were about there, a detour popped up.
The girls noticed a chocolate shop and the lady who owns it, noticed them, noticing her store and invited us in for samples. Chocolateria Isla Bella is located on 3rd Street south, between 5th Ave. and Rafael Melgar, basically just a block off the waterfront on 3rd.
I think we ended up buying 4 pieces that night to have in the room refrig., just in case of a “chocolate emergency and Lore ended up going back the night before we left the island and buying a full 16 piece assorted box to bring home…we’re still enjoying those!
We dropped our friends off at the hotel and remembered we needed some supplies for the room and started to head to Mega or Chedraui, but decided on a nightcap at ‘Ohana first…our new hangout.
Well, our new ‘in town’ hangout, the list out of San Miguel continues to grow.
Things start to work into a regular routine from here, so in an effort to save a little time and space, I’m going to change the format a little.
Basically we set into a string of continuous dive days, followed by afternoons visiting all our old haunts, meeting new friends and finding new haunts, shooting stock video for the new station website, trying to track down folks, lazing at the pool and well…vacationing!
The Gorgonians, the large purple sea fans, still have not recovered from being nearly wiped out by Wilma. The area used to look like an underwater garden with all the coral heads covered with fans and soft corals.
Some fans are about, but mostly shaggy fans that have not yet recovered, or small full fans that just haven’t grown big yet.
Despite this, this is still a great dive with lots to offer for the novice and experienced diver alike. Especially the underwater photographer.
I just want to scream, “Geesh, Dude, you didn’t even notice the reef?!”
They had just arrived, and we spend several great boat dives, and a wonderful dinner at Le Chef with them over the next week.
After spending three quarters of an hour “checking out our equipment”, everything seemed to be working a-ok, SCUBA gear and camera gear alike, and everything was a go for our first boat dives in the morning.
No Problem is the large cabin cruiser, type boat that Blue Angel uses for their late morning
It is usually full of folks that are either off a cruise ship or have come over from the mainland to
The reef is a fairly sharp sloping wall, 60-70 degrees, covered with Barrel sponges, Tube sponges of all sorts of colors and soft corals galore. Some little outcrops dot the wall here and there and are good places to find eels, Coral Banded Shrimps, Arrow crabs & the occasional King crab.
At one point he started moving further out of his hole and then back in. One these times he came out straight for me. I held my ground, as I always do.
I get the same reaction when I crawl up under a large outcrop on the big reef to take photos of sharks or large eels.
No babies this year, but I did get one good shot of the little guy.
We found a couple Big Green Moray eels, one under an outcrop getting a good cleaning from a Coral Banded Shrimp.
Thurs. 05/23: a.m. dive with Mateo and Alberto on Chiquimax
Paso de Cedral has been climbing the “favorites” list over the past couple years. Sea turtles seem to like hanging out between and on the ridgelines of coral that run on either side of the ‘valley’ that I think give the site it’s name, the ‘Pass’ part anyway.
As usual, it did not disappoint. Especially in the turtle department.
I know that Green sea turtles are found pretty much all over the world, including Mexican waters, but I had never seen one until dropping down on ‘the pass’ on this day.
At first, when I swam up on it, I was thinking that the shell looked odd for a Hawksbill, but surly it couldn’t be a Green! …IT WAS!
Several Hawksbill turtles and one Green were found, most of them feeding on sponges with angel fish and triggers all about looking to a handout…turtles seem to like Cedral, whether it is the Pass or the Wall.
We were met by a small battery of Barracuda just after dropping down. A Queen Filefish and Honeycomb cowfish passed by and we saw several very large grouper…Nassau’s are getting BIG!
I ran across a lot of Carpet anemones on many of the dives throughout the trip, several of them on Tunich, several with little purplish/blue and clear Shrimp on them. I think they are part of the Harlequin shrimp family.
Sat. 05.25: a.m. dive with Matthew and Alberto on Chiquimax
Bricks is named for the bricks that are, or used to be, scattered around the site from a cargo ship that sunk in the area years ago. I’ve been told that most of the actual bricks are now more closer to Columbia Shallows.
We found a couple Hawksbill turtles along the way, schools of grunts and pork fish milled about.
We inquired about dolphin being these waters a few years ago, and the DM told us that they usually only come into the channel when a storm is coming.
We should have taken heed, because it rained most of the day the following Tuesday. I checked NOAA radars and it appeared that there was a small depression off the coast of Coz to the east, but we only got the outskirts of it.
I found a teeny tiny little black and yellow Box fish about the size of my thumbnail. Pretty sure they are Juvenile Trunkfish.
Jose found another clear and purple anemone shrimp in one of the many Carpet anemones we came across and near the end of the dive he found a very small bluish purple and yellow nudibranch…great eyes!
Our last dives of the trip:
I like this new dive! A pretty wall, pretty much the continuation of what you find at Bricks with a lot of caverns to move in and out of.
Along one of the caverns on a small shelf, Jose found an orange Seahorse, it seemed like an odd place for one to me, but, there he was!
Lore found another junie Lionfish, and Jose continued to find nudibrach, pipefish and all kinds of little critters.
Trunk fish and grouper were all over this reef!
We found a lot of large grouper spread out throughout the entire dive. Most of them tucked up under large shelves, but a few out in the open…beautiful animals.
I found a Yellow spotted stingray buried in the sand and got a shot of him before he took off.
And to cap off our trip, what else, but 2 Splendid toadfish.
Just a real pretty dive to finish it all up. I had been trying to get there all week, and Alberto even laughed when I said so after Jose suggested it.
Although I did find a patch of coral on one dive that looked like someone sat in it. It was a patch of finger coral, roughly 3 ½ foot in diameter and it looked like someone literally sat down in the middle of it. Could have been ‘natural’ damage of some sort, but it was really the only broken coral I saw.
Every year they get more and more impressive, Columbia Deep in particular on this trip really stood out, just beautiful.
There are some really large grouper out there now. I started noticing them getting much larger a couple of years ago. We saw several this trip, that were simply huge.
Water temps ranged from 80 – 82 degrees on most dives. The last day we dove was after it rained all day the day before and water temps were 77 degrees on both of those dives, but still very comfortable.
Speaking of the rain. Several years ago we asked a DM if they ever saw dolphins here much.
He said the only time they seemed to come around was when a storm was coming.
Oddly enough we saw the 2 dolphin on the way out to dive on Sunday, and it rained the following Tuesday. I checked satellite and radars for the area on Tuesday, and sure enough there was a small depression off to the East of the island.
So maybe the dolphin are an indicator of weather patterns when you see them in the channel.
Howard, a retired Dr. and part timer on the island. A great guy and lots of fun to dive with. He dives here so much, it’s almost like having an extra DM along for the ride.
His buddies Sid from Northern California, who is about to become a full timer, and Jerry, the owner of the Rejuvenation Clinic, all three we have had the pleasure of diving with on previous trips.
Steve, Skip & Mary from Nebraska
Alex and his daughter Jennifer from San Antonio
Alicia and Dan from Austin
Pam and Russ from New Mexico
Brothers John and Dan from Chicago
Rock-n-Java – a long time favorite, Lisa and crew continue bring good and healthy food and some of the best desserts on the island.
For starters Potato Skins, some of the best I’ve ever had, topped with cheese, bacon and pico de guio. Spinach salad for her, loaded with all the good stuff a spinach salad should have, and a club sandwich for me.
The club is great, but HUGE! I could barely stuff down half the thing.
2 frozen strawberry/lemonades…it just sounded good, and was!
La Candela – another new favorite, we discovered it a couple year ago when we were going to try and eat someplace else and it wasn’t open so tried this place on a whim, and what a payoff that was.
This trip Lore had the “Candela” style fish. The house special style.
I had what was for sure to that point the best meal of the trip. Fish with crunchy vegetables. WOW, the description pretty much tells you what it is, but who know that slightly sautéed julienne veggies, especially onion, goes so well with fish.
I'm pretty sure Wahoo was the catch; it seemed to be on a lot of menus while we were there.
All that held us over until we ended up back at Ohana and it just happened to be Angie;s birthday weekend and the crew was celebrating with pizza and cake and we were invited to partake.
So this was my second time to eat Matt and Angie’s fantastic Chicago style deep dish, and I don’t know who made the cake, but it was amazing as well. A chocolate tres leche cake, I believe; rich, moist, sweet…did I mention rich.
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Blue Angel restaurant: Always good food, and great go-to for lunch by the pool, BLT & shrimp quesadilla.
The amazing Buccanos at Night. Once again, I’ve been telling people for nearly a year, don’t leave Cozumel without doing Buccanos for dinner.,,now I know why.
The setting is even more spectacular at night and I don’t know what it is about the angle of the sunset to the island, but the sunset up there was nothing short of breathtaking.
As was the food by the way, I had a double date for the evening, the lovely Miss Christi Courtney of BlueXTSea Divers joined us on this lovely Friday evening.
I have just recently realized that I have known Christi longer than anyone else on the island other than my buddy Armando Alentado at Island Photo and Video
Good thing too, it’s easier for three to share a sampling of a fine menu than it is for two
We started off sharing both of the special appetizers. Beautifully grilled fresh pineapple and fresh mozzarella over a bed of arugula and topped with just the right amount of pesto and what I describe as mini tuna tostadas with a blueberry sauce and blueberries. Im not doing it much justice, but it was delicious.
For dessert we went all out and ordered all three specials. Inez, the owner chef, does a weekly mousse special of three shot glasses with three different flavored mousses in them.
Always unique flavorings, I think one was some sort of coffee or mocha, one had habanero, and one was maybe blueberries again, not sure, but I think some sort of fruit base.
This is a casual, slow paced, relaxing dinner. Order one of the specialty drinks and enjoy the sun setting as you wait for Inez to personally come to your table and explain the specials for the evening.
The wait staff perfectly times the rest of your meal out where you are not rushed, but also not impatiently waiting for the next thing. Savor and enjoy, is the theme here.
Coconuts, my “Margaritaville” – a trip to the “wild side” -
Fish burgers for all! Messy, yes, but what a way to go! Opting again for a straight shot of sipping tequila over the nearly world famous margaritas.
Got back to the hotel and debated about extending the trip, what’s to debate? By the time we called the airline and talked to the hotel, it was getting late, so I just ran up to Mega and got a couple pieces of pizza to go…I know sacrilege after ‘Ohana’s pie, but we were tired and it filled the hole.
Blue Angel restaurant: BLT and shrimp ceviche for lunch.
Woody’s: Fish & chips for her, 2 huge fish fillets, deep fried with a light crust and I think Mayan seasoning with perfectly cooked French fries.
A big ol’ chicken burrito for me. Stuffed with white meat chicken, cheese, pico, cream fresh (sour cream), more than I could do in one sitting for sure.
Late lunch/ early dinner at La Terraza. In the former location of Prima Pasta, on the second story terrace, just south of the plaza, this place has reclaimed the top spot in Italian cuisine on Cozumel.
For the main event, Lore had the Seafood Lasagna, another improved receipt from the old store, absolutely stuffed with all kinds of seafood and a serving large enough for a family of four.
I had the chicken raviolis, which were the best raviolis I’ve had since I can remember. Fresh pasta wrapped around a tasty chicken filling and topped with red alfredo mushroom sauce…amazing.
2 coffees, 2 Frangelico, split a piece of Key Lime pie and we floated down the little spiral staircase in culinary bliss.
After checking the bags early at the airport, our last day on the island, we headed to The Museum, another long, long time favorites of ours.
I opted for one last breakfast, “the Countryman”, 2 scrambled eggs, fruit, and frijoles. Lore had the Shrimp ceviche…one last time.
All in all, the culinary expedition turned out pretty good this year. Top three meals for sure were Buccanos at Night; Mahi poached in chipotle and honey, La Candela, fish with crunchy vegetables & La Terazza; Chicken ravioli, in no particular order. It really would be hard to pick a favorite out of the three.
La Hatch stands out as great “go to” place to eat. Reasonable prices, very good food and open until at least midnight most nights they are open.
Several evenings we stopped by ‘Ohana for a nightcap of Reposado tequila sipping shots and conversation with Matt, Angie, their family members and the local ex-pats and business folks that frequent the place.
I mentioned earlier that the greatest masseuse in the world Sally Hurwitch, better known as “Barefoot Sally” www.barefootincozumel.com was out of town and I ended up getting a massage at Blue Angel.
Well, it just so happened that we decided to extend out trip from ten days to a full two weeks, something we did last year as well. We’re just going to have to book 2 weeks from the get-go.
We spent even more time than we usually do driving around in town. After all these years, I’m finally starting to know my way around San Miguel pretty well.
For a couple years after our accident in 2005, I felt a little nervous about driving around the back neighborhood narrow streets, but I’ve gotten past that now and very much enjoy exploring around town.
Driving around the "wild side" of the island this time of year, you will see markings on the road where the Turtle Conservation people have marked where they have dug up turtle eggs to incubate them. On the beach you will find pole markers to mark the exact place & date where the eggs were found...
These are some interesting plants we found along the way...
One thing I noticed this trip, is how many of those little “Super mini” quick shops there are around. Most of them seem to be named after people, Super mini Rosie” “Super mini Jose”
I’ve seen them before of course, even stopped and bought things at them before, but I don’t think I noticed that there must be 100’s of them scattered about throughout the neighborhoods of San Miguel.
I even found one back in the new housing development back east of 80th that is in a traditional Mayan hut…very cool.
Somewhere in the middle of this trip, I decided I’m going to do a photographic essay, taking images of every one of them I run across on the next trip. It will probably take me an hour to drive 6 or 7 blocks! It could take years to shoot all of them…hopefully.
All in all, another wonderful trip to our little piece of paradise and after several talks with some of our ex-pat friends, we may actually be starting to think about becoming some sort of part-timers on the island…still a developing story.
Thanks to my buddy Armando Alentado of Island Photo and Video for coming by and looking at my strobe. Good to see you as always my friend.
If you are looking to get into underwater photography, see Armando to rent a camera and get some instruction, Cozumel is a great place to cut your chops on underwater photography.
Thanks to all our friends and ‘family’ on the island for your hospitality.
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